What Is The Best Insulation For My Garage
Though
often overlooked, your garage is one of the most important rooms in the house.
It’s also one of the largest. It gets used several times everyday. It acts as a
main storage unit. Plus, if you have an attached addition, it probably becomes
your most accessible entryway, which makes your garage door more like your
front door. However, since this room is often considered an outbuilding (even
when it’s attached) it tends to be neglected. Usually these spaces are not
properly sealed, hazard-proofed, and typically remain uninsulated, making them
inefficient and possibly dangerous.
Why
Garage Insulation?
What’s
the point of insulating every nook and cranny around the house just to let air
seep in and out of the garage, especially since these spaces are known for
fluctuating temperatures: they’re steamy in the summer and freezing in the
winter? So whether the area is small or large, and whether you use it a lot or
not, it’s vital to install garage insulation. It helps to prohibit air seepage,
heat transfer, health threats, and most importantly, it saves on unnecessary
energy costs. You may even spend more time out there once the climate has
become better regulated due to proper insulating.
Where
Does It Go?
If
garage insulation is just installed in the one wall edging your home’s
interior, you’ll already be saving tons on energy costs: a lot of air escapes
and heat is transferred between this particular partition. Plus, by law,
insulation in this wall is required to be fire-rated (due to the high
probability of combustible liquids stored in this “room” and its lack of smoke
detectors), which adds an extra layer of safety to the space. And don’t forget
the ceiling: If an attic or bedroom rests above, insulating this “horizontal
wall” is crucial. Also, you can insulate the door with ready-made kits that
seal and prevent any problematic air gaps.
Which
Garage Insulation Is Best?
There
are a couple options when it comes to insulation. Each depends on your budget, whether you
do it yourself or hire a contractor, and your personal needs:
§
Batt insulation: This cotton-fiberglass
material is fairly inexpensive and easy to use: simply place it in between the
studs, staple a vapor barrier to cover it, and you’re in business. However, for
it to work effectively, you’ll need to wall it up as well. Therefore, you’ll
need to buy and install 1/2-inch drywall around the room (though ceiling and
walls adjacent to living areas typically require 5/8-inch drywall). This may
require the work of a garage contractor, depending on how handy
you are and how good you want the final product to look. It adds to your cost
but if it’s worth being done, then it’s worth being done right.
§
Blown-in insulation: If you already have
drywall installed around your garage but don’t have it insulated, then blown-in
insulation may be the answer. A contractor will come and open up a hole in the
wall, pump in a cellulose insulating material, and then patch up the opening.
Blown-in insulation is quick and can be done within a few hours without any
additional demo or reinstallation. However, it may be a bit more expensive
since contractors usually charge a minimum fee no matter the size of the space
or the time it takes.
§
Foam board: If you don’t want to
install drywall, you may be able to cover the batt insulation with rigid foam
board. But check with your local building codes to make sure it has a radiant
barrier and guarantee that it is flame tested.
Proper
Sealing
Once
the garage insulation is installed, it’s important to take a quick inspection
of the area. Since there are a lot of dangerous chemicals around this space,
and since cars give off a lot of exhaust (and dangerous carbon monoxide),
you’ll want to be sure everything is sealed off. Caulk around the bottom of the
drywall and seal it to the floor. Weatherstrip the door leading into the house.
Possibly buy a metal door for extra fire safety and always make sure it
self-closes. And examine around any windows, electrical outlets, and the garage
door for air leaks that may need to be addressed to ensure energy efficiency.
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